RESTAURANT

This review appeared in the Planet Weekly newspaper on June 1, 2005.
Visit Plantet Weekly here.

When lunchtime hits downtown Northport and Tuscaloosa, most people rely on a few staple restaurants for the quality Southern cooking. Lines can sometimes go outside the front door. Maybe it’s the drive-through service, but often I wonder why BottomFeeders doesn’t have the same problem–the establishment certainly warrants the patronage. Just past thebustle of downtown Northport, toward the airport, lies a small island of a building in a sea of asphalt. On a grassy spot past he parking list are some benches and tables under a freestanding awning, equipped with condiments and paper towels. It’s imple, just like the statuettes decorating the entrance. All of the sights serve to accentuate the Southernesss of the smells.

When you walk into BottomFeeders, you come upon an orderly but busy scene. A line curls over toward the register, and menus are in abundance so you can think about what to order – and you might still need more time! Barbequed pork, ribs, fried catfish, smoked chicken and wings. Cole slaw, baked beans, french fries. It’s always a challenge to really pock something but rest assured that your hunger will be sated. I usually don’t ear much catfish, but at BottomFeeders I can’t stop myself. The breading has some special touch, maybe some kind of slight tinge of citrus, that keeps the mouth watering. The ribs are formidable hunks of meat cooked so perfectly that you want to leave those messy smears around your lips to remember the flavor. The pork sandwich and plate are excellent for a lunch on the go.

The real signature food at BottomFeeders is, however, their smoked chicken. Whether on a sandwich or a basket of wings, the flavor of that chicken is no less than fantastic. Once again, wings are not a food I particularly enjoy, but I will tear into those pieces of the hardest part of the bird to ear with relish, if it means having that smoky taste in my mouth. With some hot sauce and about fifty of those wings, any party would instantly become a conversation between mouthfuls around the table. Fortunately, BottomFeeders does in fact cater, for those occasions when only down home vittles will please.

The space itself is cozy while avoiding crampedness. Televisions usually have the news on, and there are plenty of windows letting the sunny days sleep in. The red and white gingham pattern is accented throughout the seating area, embellishing the quaint, friendly feel. Little accent decorations provide entertainment for the scanning eye, and the seating is arranged comfortably for pleasant conversation.

Though BottomFeeders is an order-at-the-counter business, the service is impeccable. Not only is the staff genuinely affable, but they trake care of you from the moment that you order. Once you sit down, there is little need to get up, because when you acknowledge when your name is called, your meal comes to you. If here is a lunch rush, someone will point out where the empty spaces are. Drink refills are also shuttled back and forth by a floor attendant, so unless you have to use the restroom, you are free to sit back and get into the food.

BottomFeeders is a rather clean place, even the parts of the kitchen area that are visible. You don’t sit at a dirty table, waiting for someone to wipe it off. I didn’t see messy floors or unpresentable employees. It all has a neat, orderly appearance custom-tailored for enjoyable and comfortable digestion.

To those of you who go to BottomFeeders regularly, all this is preaching to the converted. Those of you who have not sampled the goodnesss they’re cooking in your neighborhood are doing a disservice to your tastebuds. Go down the road a bit before you have the same o’l. You might be part of a long line yet.

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